Low Water Pressure? Here's What's Actually Wrong

Low water pressure is one of those problems that starts as mildly annoying and gradually drives you insane. The good news: most causes are fixable without major work.

First: Is It Just One Fixture or All of Them?

This tells you whether the problem is local or system-wide.

One fixture has low pressure: the problem is in that fixture or its supply line.

Multiple fixtures have low pressure: the problem is in your main supply line, pressure regulator, or municipal supply.

Single-Fixture Problems (Easy Fixes)

Clogged aerator: This is the screen at the tip of your faucet. Mineral deposits and sediment clog it over time. Unscrew it (hand-tight, or use pliers with a cloth to protect the finish), rinse it under water, poke debris out with a toothpick, screw it back on. Takes two minutes. Fixes 70% of single-faucet pressure issues.

Clogged showerhead: same deal. Unscrew it, soak it in vinegar overnight to dissolve deposits, rinse, reinstall. If it's really cruddy, just buy a new one for $20-40.

Partially closed shut-off valve: under every sink and toilet, there are small valves that control water to that fixture. Make sure they're fully open. Sometimes they get bumped or someone turns them partway and forgets.

Kinked supply line: the flexible line running from the shut-off valve to the fixture. If it's bent or twisted, water can't flow properly. Straighten it or replace it.

Whole-House Problems (More Involved)

Pressure regulator failure: Most homes have a pressure regulator where the main line enters the house. It's a bell-shaped valve. Normal pressure is 45-60 PSI. If yours is set too low or the regulator is failing, you'll have weak pressure everywhere. You can adjust it yourself (there's a screw on top), but if it's old and failing, replacement costs $300-500.

Main shut-off valve partially closed: sounds obvious, but check it. It's where your main water line enters the house. Make sure it's fully open.

Pipe corrosion: if your house is old and still has galvanized steel pipes, they corrode from the inside over decades. The pipe diameter shrinks, restricting flow. Only fix is repiping. Costs $2,000-15,000 depending on house size.

Water leak somewhere: a hidden leak means water is escaping before it reaches your fixtures. Check your water meter. Turn off all water in the house, then watch the meter. If it's moving, you've got a leak.

Municipal supply issue: sometimes the problem isn't your house—it's the city's water pressure. Ask your neighbors if they're having issues. If so, call Charlotte Water. Normal city pressure is 50-65 PSI. If the whole neighborhood is low, they need to fix it.

Hot Water Only?

If only your hot water has low pressure, the problem is your water heater.

Sediment buildup: minerals settle at the bottom of the tank, then get sucked into the hot water outlet. Flush your tank to clear it. If flushing doesn't help, the dip tube (the pipe inside the tank) might be broken.

Shut-off valve: your water heater has its own shut-off valve. Make sure it's fully open.

Testing Your Pressure

Buy a pressure gauge ($10-15 at any hardware store). Screw it onto an outdoor faucet or washing machine hookup. Turn on the water. The gauge shows your PSI.

45-60 PSI is normal. Below 40 is too low. Above 80 is too high (which causes other problems).

If you're getting good pressure at the outdoor faucet but low pressure inside, the problem is inside your house (probably the regulator or corroded pipes).

Charlotte-Specific Issues

Charlotte has good municipal water pressure, so city supply is rarely the problem.

Our soft water means less mineral buildup than other areas. If your aerators and showerheads are clogged despite soft water, you've got sediment in your pipes—probably from an old water heater or corroded pipes.

Older neighborhoods (built before 1980) often have galvanized pipes that are corroding. If you're in Dilworth, Myers Park, Plaza Midwood, or other older areas and have low pressure in multiple fixtures, this is likely your issue.

Quick Wins to Try First

Clean all your aerators and showerheads. Total cost: $0. Total time: 30 minutes.

Check that all shut-off valves (fixture and main) are fully open. Cost: $0. Time: 5 minutes.

Test your pressure with a gauge. Cost: $15. Time: 2 minutes.

These three steps fix or diagnose 80% of pressure problems. If none of them work, call a plumber—you've got a bigger issue that needs professional eyes.